History and Culture

Tracing Portuguese Heritage in Jakarta

VIVAnews - People pinpoint the spot as Kampung Tugu (Tugu Kampong). Situated in Semper Barat, Cilincing Subdistrict, North Jakarta, the Kampong is squeezed by a number of industrial buildings. Tanjung Priok Harbor is only located around four kilometers north-west of it. 

The Kampong is inhabited by Tugu people. They are Portuguese descendants who started to inhabit the area in 1661. "The word Tugu is derived from Portuguese," Arthur Michiels, a dweller of Kampung Tugu, told VIVAnews.

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The story began as Vereenigde Oost-indische Compagnie (Dutch East India Company) occupied a port city in the Malacca Straits in 1641, previously colonized by Portugal. Then, Dutch colonizers took the Portuguese to Indonesia as prisoners of war. They were then placed in Kampung Bandan.

After settling in Kampung Bandan for 20 years, 23 families, around 150 Tugu people, were liberated and transferred to Kampung Tugu. The Dutch colonizers called them De Mardijkers, meaning 'the liberated people.'

At that time, Kampung Tugu was surrounded by swamps infamous as a malaria-bearing mosquito nest. There, the Tugu people survived by hunting animals and fishing.

The Portuguese traditions still enliven the homes of Kampung Tugu. In fact, up until 1940, they spoke Portuguese in daily conversations. "Today, Tugu inhabitants are provided with weekly Portuguese course from several embassy officials who speak Portuguese," said Michiels.

The population in Kampung Tugu is estimated to be around 1,200 people. There are only 600 people that still dwell in Kampung Tugu. Around 100 others are spread around Indonesia. In addition, 500 Tugu descendants reside in the Netherlands. "In 1950, many of the Tugu people went to Papua and migrated to the Netherlands through Suriname," said Michiels.

Those who are still in Kampong Tugu still practice several Portuguese traditions including Rabo-rabo. The Rabo-rabo tradition is held every new year's eve: it is an inter-family visiting tradition. A family visits their relatives, and these two gathering families will visit other families. The process continues until all families gather in the oldest family. "In line with the nature of the Portuguese who often frequent parties, we always sing and dance in any event," said Michiels.

Tugu Church

The Portuguese inheritage is very apparent in Tugu Church, which was founded around 1678 by As Amelchior Leidecker. "Those who come and pray in the church are not only people from Tugu. Many outsiders also pray there," he said.

The church still maintains its original architecture although it has often been renovated. The structure of the building is simple. The white concrete walls are combined with red window panes and doors. A cemetery is located at the churchyard. Rumor has it that Leydecker is also buried in the area.

Translated by: Bonardo Maulana Wahono

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VIVA.co.id
19 April 2024